‘Every Chef Ought to Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.